How to do a full face, without the cake.

For years the makeup industry has swung like a pendulum. We’ve lived through the “King Kylie” era of block brows, glittery cut creases, and ultra-matte lips - only to land where we are now, firmly in the clean girl aesthetic. Lately, it’s all been about barely - there bases, fluffy brows, and mastering the “no makeup” makeup look, as if we all just naturally woke up with perfect skin. Minimalism became the gold standard, and anything even slightly heavier risked being labelled, of course - as “cakey.”

But what about those of us who don’t always want to look like we’re wearing nothing? When did actually enjoying makeup - playing with it, building it, loving it become such a crime? Because let’s be honest: there’s something powerful, expressive, and undeniably fun about a full face. The goal isn’t to abandon it, it’s to learn how to wear it better.

Growing up, I spent fifteen years as a competitive dancer, which taught me many things - from how to drop into the splits or fouette on demand (this still stands) but most importantly how to apply a slightly alarming amount of foundation and still somehow make it look like skin. Think polished, sculpted, and complete, without the heaviness, the cracking, or the dreaded cake. These rituals followed me from dance comp to every day, I  remember waking up at 6am to complete my glitter cut crease to go to school… So from dance comp full beats, to my GCSE revision cut crease, it's safe to say I learnt a lot, now officially holding the title of friendship group MUA. There’s practically a waiting list any time there’s a night out.

Most of the time, it’s not your skill level that’s holding you back, it’s fear. A full face isn’t really the moment to be overly cautious. You don’t have to go overboard, but a little confidence with the product makes all the difference. My makeup bag is very much an ode to the greats - Fenty Beauty, Huda Beauty, and a long-standing loyalty to a good pair of lashes. Years of trial and error (evidence image left... yikes) have led me to having some pretty good make up tricks up my sleeve, from skin prep to fake lash application, here's my breakdown. 

Step 1 - Before anything else, prep matters 

Before anything else, prep matters. Nothing complicated -  just make sure your skin is properly hydrated. You don’t need anything overly fancy (or anything involving salmon sperm, which has somehow entered the chat). A simple moisturiser will do,  I use the tea tree and witch hazel one, from Boots own brand range.

Step 2 - Time for tacky 

Next, primer. My go to is the e.l.f. Power Grip Primer - this is one of those rare moments where “tacky” is exactly what you want. It gives your base something to hold onto.

Step 3 - Building the base 

For foundation, Fenty Beauty rarely misses. The Fenty Beauty Eaze Drop Skin Tint is a personal favourite: lightweight, buildable, and very forgiving. The trick is in how you apply it - with a beauty blender, think gentle tapping rather than dragging.

Step 4 - The wet to dry race 

Concealer and loose powder is where everything really comes together. I use the e.l.f. Hydrating Camo Concealer with Huda Beauty Easy Bake Loose Powder. A small amount of concealer in the inner corner and just under the outer eye is usually enough. The best tip here is to work quicker than you think - blend the wet concealer, then instantly set with the loose powder before anything has time to crease - and don't be scared of the loose powder, more is more here, just  brush away any excess powder after. This step truly is the key to a flawless finish. 

Step 5 - Achieving the sunkissed look 

Bronzer and blush are mostly about placement. Keeping everything slightly higher on the face -  cheekbones, temples, a touch on the forehead - gives that lifted, fresh look. I tend to place blush along the top of the cheekbones rather than directly on the centre, and a little across the nose adds that soft, sun-kissed finish.

Step 6 - Brows are the anchor of the face 

Brows are very much a personal thing. Some days call for bold, structured brows; other days, something softer. For everyday, I’d always reach for a brow pen over a pencil - it mimics real hairs and keeps things natural, the L’Oréal Paris Faux Brow Pen is a really good one.

Step 7 - The dreaded winged liner…

Eyes are where you can lean into what suits you. It helps to know whether you suit higher or lower contrast looks - for example, with darker hair and lighter eyes, I naturally gravitate towards deeper shadows and a bit more definition. A smoky eye and a sharp wing are my comfort zone. A felt-tip liner makes life easier, just follow the angle of your lower lash line and take your time.

Step 8 - Your fear of fake lashes is holding you back 

I always finish with a fake lash… and encourage more people to be less afraid of them. A three quarter lash can really be the perfect finishing touch, I always have a stock of Tatti Lashes, specifically the ‘wedding lash ¾’. The ultimate top tip with lashes is to apply them under your natural lashes, not on top, however this is a high risk activity, due to the likelihood of glue getting in your eye, so watch a youtube video and proceed at your own risk. 

Step 9 - Lip stain innovation 

Finally, lips. Lip stains are the one TikTok trend I fully support. Long-lasting, low-maintenance, and completely snog proof - what more could you want? I top it off with a Kiko Milano Hydrogloss, the best lipgloss on the market. 

Step 10 - Mist it 

Lock it all in with setting spray - the Urban Decay All Nighter Setting Spray was a 2016 icon for a reason. 

And that’s it: a full face, zero fear, and not a hint of cake in sight.