A Rebel with Lace and Tulle

Founded in 2005 by Royal College of Art graduate Erdem Moralioglu, the eponymous label made its debut on the London Fashion Week schedule after winning journalist Colin McDowell’s Fashion Fringe award. They say fortune favours the brave and in fashion, often dramatically so. At a time when the industry leaned toward cautious, conservative dressing, London pulsed with bold, feverish talent that had no issue grabbing what they wanted with their bare hands. Moralioglu was part of this vanguard, but his defiance came fastened with elegance. As he once famously said, Erdem was a rebel with lace and tulle. 

From the outset, storytelling has been the beating heart of the Erdem brand. Over two decades, it has become one of Britain’s most celebrated fashion houses: twice awarded the British Fashion Council’s Womenswear Designer of the Year, and worn by figures such as the Princess of Wales and Michelle Obama. 

“Fashion, to me, has always been a way to tell stories.” Moralioglu reflects. “This book is a story built from fabrics, feelings, real lives and imagined ones. It reflects the ideas and influences that have shaped my world over the past two decades: thoughts on creativity, glimpses into my atelier and the people, places and objects that continue to inspire me."

The monograph offers a deeply personal exploration of the Erdem universe. Through intimate photography, archival material, and artwork, it unpacks what defines the Erdem women: how she acts, thinks and carries herself. It offers rare insights into Moralioglu’s creative process and his enduring fascination with history, character, and narrative. 

Short stories, scripts, recipes, interviews and contributions from close friends, ardent admirers and long-time collaborators of the house, ground each chapter with context and insight. Ranging from Anna Wintour, Sarah Mower, and Tim Blanks, to Maria Balshaw and Nicholas Cullinan, the line-up is nothing short of formidable, a who’s who of cultural commentators shaping how we understand fashion today. And a clear testament to the quality of a person Moralioglu is and the ethos he champions.

As Hugo Macdonald put it, “Erdem is renowned for the rich narrative qualities of his work. Each collection is rooted in a character at a particular place or time.” In a digital age, this notion feels exceptionally fitting. It's as if Moralioglu understands that having a tangible representation of his brand is exactly what its loyal followers want, something to cherish like the brand's garments themselves. As we can physically feel fashion being pulled to exist only in the eyes of social media, to have something tactile, and deeply considered, works as a reminder that fashion, at its best, is about memory, and craft. It's a hope that this book isn't just used as a colourful coffee table addition, but read, reread, worn down, striped up and used to its fullest extent. 

Erdem is out now and available via the Erdem flagship store in Mayfair, and online. Better grab yours here!