LFWM Moments Bethany Williams

London Fashion Week Menswear Moments

London Fashion Week | Jun 7, 2024

From Ozwald Boateng’s Savile Row spectacle to the vibrant energy of Bianca Saunders’ dawn dancehall party, we celebrate London as an enduring crucible of creativity.

Text by Augustine Hammond

As London Fashion Week Men’s returns with a fresh new concept designed to “ignite a cultural moment”, we look back at some of the previous pivotal moments over the years that have enriched the narrative of men’s  – and in turn women’s – fashion.

Ozwald Boateng
Spring/Summer 2011 

Embarking from the iconic Odeon Cinema in Leicester Square, weaving through streets of Mayfair, and culminating on the storied Savile Row, the maestro of tailoring, Ozwald Boateng, brought London Fashion Week to a close with a procession of 100 models.

Celebrating the brand’s 25th anniversary, the event marked the enduring influence of bespoke tailoring on men's fashion. Not only that, but Ozwald also, critically, represented a rare, non-white perspective on Savile Row, which has been so crucial in London's wider fashion landscape. Heralding a pivotal era for British menswear as it ascended to the global stage, paving the way for the imminent launch of London Collections: Men—an official men's fashion week poised to rival the esteemed events in Milan and Paris.

LFWM Moments Ozwald Boateng
LFWM Moments Nasir 1

Nasir Mazhar
Spring/Summer 2014

With the pulse of a pirate radio station echoing in the background, Nasir Mazhar’s debut show saw models stomp the runway in face masks and nylon shell tracksuits. Garments branded with elasticated tape, boldly reading ‘Nasir Mazhar’ (boldly, because he was not a household name like Calvin Klein, who made branded underwear a thing), became a key motif of the moment, as they protruded from hemlines and waistbands across the city. Mazhar’s audacious redefinition of “luxury” through streetwear shown on a catwalk spurred a shock, and then a shift, that would soon permeate even the most prestigious fashion houses.



Craig Green
Spring/Summer 2015 

In the summer of 2014, Craig Green hosted his debut solo show, leaving the front row in tears. The collection was a poetic tour de force, with barefoot models draped in signature panelled worker jackets that expanded to Samurai-like proportions. These garments, part armor, part straightjacket, revealed cut-out panels that spoke of vulnerability. Declaring his presence with what he termed  “a silent protest” Green reimagined the perceived uniformity of men’s fashion, etching his vision into the menswear schedule.

LFWM Moments Craig Green
LFWM Moments Martine Rose

Martine Rose
Autumn/Winter 2017

For her return to the runway after a four-year hiatus, Martine Rose transported her audience to a far-flung indoor market in Tottenham. Subverting traditional male archetypes – the banker, the bus driver, the estate agent, the office worker – she reasserted her status as a trailblazer of London style. With this bold move to Zone 3, Rose demonstrated her ability to steer menswear in new directions. 

Bianca Saunders
Autumn/Winter 2020

Grainy and distorted VHS recordings and a blaring ‘90s dancehall soundtrack formed the backdrop to Bianca Saunders’ 2020 presentation. The early 9 am slot saw models dance in satin-lined booths wearing Saunders’ signature tailoring cut and tweaked with movement in mind. The young designer, woke the fashion pack up, injecting a new energy into the schedule through her celebration of music, culture and community. 

LFWM Moments Bianca Saunders

Autumn/Winter 2023

For his Autumn/Winter 2023 show Foday Dumbuya, the creative director of Labrum London, chose Brixton Village as the place to set the scene. Powerfully illuminating the harsh realities of family separation by telling the unheard stories of immigrants, like himself, who have existed between continents. Unwavering in his desire to tell real stories, the collection was an ode to Dumbuya’s West African heritage and the city of London, featuring suitcase headdresses and motifs of travel, encapsulating a journey of identity and belonging.