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Monica Vinader Can Trace Exactly Who Mines Her Aquamarines

ACCESSORIES NEWS | Aug 6, 2024

Once murky territory, a gemstone's journey is now totally traceable as British jewellery brand Monica Vinader leads the way in opening up her supply chain.

Written by Caroline Issa

In a world where the origins of the things we buy and wear often lie hidden beneath layers of opacity, Monica Vinader's latest jewellery collection, Odyssey, emerges as a beacon of transparency and ethical commitment. Unveiled this week, this collection is not just a now-signature cut- gemstone collection of ocean blue pieces, but a testament to a visionary approach that redefines the standards of the jewellery industry. Odyssey's uniqueness lies in its fully traceable gemstones, a pioneering feat that offers consumers a rare insight into the journey of each piece, usually reserved only for the most uber-luxe diamond pieces that most of the top-tier luxury jewellery houses are having to share as consumers become more conscious in how they spend their money.

The stones in the Odyssey collection are sourced from the Zimbaqua mine in Karoi, Zimbabwe, where a fully female workforce mines aquamarine gemstones. These women, often in a conservative and male-dominated industry, find empowerment and significantly higher earnings compared to other local occupations. The mine's commitment to community welfare, education, and child well-being underscores a model of socially responsible mining, all vetted by Monica Vinader's Norfolk-based team who have searched, identified and partnered with this specific mine because they share the same values and desire for welfare and socially-responsible business.

Crafted in 100% recycled 18ct gold vermeil (another signature of the brand), the collection’s five styles—cuff, necklace, cocktail ring, and earrings—echo the depths of the ocean with their vivid blue and greenish-blue hues. Each gem's journey is meticulously documented, courtesy of Monica Vinader’s groundbreaking Product Passport program. This initiative, leveraging blockchain technology, offers unparalleled transparency, allowing customers to trace the origins and impacts of their jewelry.

Credit Iver Rosenkrantz 1

Photo by Iver Rosenkrantz

Odyssey Open Ring, 100% Recycled 18Ct Gold Vermeil & Aquamarine, £150

The importance of Odyssey extends beyond its aesthetic appeal. It represents a bold stride towards sustainable jewellery at a price point that means you can treat yourself, all the while challenging the industry's norms. Until now, traceability in jewelry has often been confined to metals and lab-grown diamonds, or to the big luxury houses where controversy has meant they've needed to be more transparent. By focusing on gemstone traceability—a notoriously complex sector—Monica Vinader sets a new benchmark, inspiring others to follow suit.

Whilte the Odyssey collection and its traceability initiative are undoubtedly pioneering, any ambitious project has potential blind spots. For example, verification of traceability claims must be robust, especially where  monitoring conditions and practices can be difficult. Mining operations inherently carry environmental risks, and even with stringent audits, there can be unintended ecological consequences, such as habitat disruption or water contamination, that may not be fully mitigated.  Maintaining the same level of traceability and ethical standards across a growing product range can be challenging. As the company scales (and scaling it has been!), ensuring that all mines and intermediaries consistently adhere to these high standards may become more difficult.

And lastly, for the initiative to have its intended impact, consumers need to understand and value traceability and ethical sourcing, demanding it not just from Monica Vinader, but all their favourite jewellery makers. Much like the backlash against fast fashion (Shein, we're pointing at you), educating consumers and ensuring that they are willing to support and potentially pay a premium for these practices is crucial for the initiative's long-term success.

As Monica Vinader’s team meticulously chose and bought the rough stones directly from Zimbaqua, they ensured not just quality but ethical integrity. This collection is more than jewelry; it's a story of transformation, of communities uplifted, and of a brand relentlessly pursuing transparency. Odyssey is not merely an adornment but a narrative of sustainability and empowerment, marking a significant milestone in the luxury jewelry landscape.