BFC NEWGEN reveals its lineup 

It's always an exciting day when the BFC announces its NEWGEN line-up. Developed in 1993, the NEWGEN scheme has proved time and time again to be one of the most invigorating initiatives in the fashion industry. Supporting young and emerging designers with funding, as well as the chance to show at LFW, NEWGEN boasts an elite alumni and each year curates its roster for the coming year. 

Some familiar faces will be returning, including Aaron Esh, Pauline Dujancourt, Derrick and Charlie Constantinou, just to name a few. However, of course, all eyes are on the new designers chosen to join the impressive fashion fleet. Taking a look at the designers joining the BFC scheme this year, allow us to introduce you to the ones to watch. 

ALETTA

The brainchild of Central Saint Martins alumni Freddy Coomes and Matt Empringham, ALETTA redefines British fashion through a surrealist lens. Their designs play with dimensions, creating garments that appear two-dimensional, reminiscent of paper dolls, and scarves that seem perpetually windblown. Their debut collection at Dover Street Market featured structured silk polo dresses, blending playful aesthetics with contemporary wearability. Embracing unconventional materials, like synthetic textiles used in sports cars, they challenge traditional fashion norms. Their commitment to material innovation makes them a playful addition to the NEWGEN cohort and one we are excited to see off Instagram and in the flesh this September!

Oscar Ouyang

Seeming to keep with the theme here, another CSM graduate joins the cohort. Oscar Ouyang is a knitwear designer drawing inspiration from medieval art and Studio Ghibli films. His collections feature intricate fair isle patterns and plush alpaca textiles, with his pragmatic approach leading to early success, securing orders from Dover Street Market before his official brand launch! Amongst London's summer rays,s Ouyang has us itching for sweater weather already! 

EWUSIE

Existing in the gaps between generations and cultures, Joshua Ewusie’s collections manifest as sartorial embodiments of those in-between-y spaces. For his MA graduate collection ‘You Don’t Fear the Cold’, Ewusie drew inspiration from his mum’s wardrobe, discovering an eclectic mix of 80s silhouettes, traditional Ghanaian prints and sportswear. Paying homage to his roots but also respecting his own taste and contemporary aesthetics, Ewusie’s final collection was a meshing of inter-generational dressing and shapes. A standout look was a glittering, beaded mini dress, embellished with spatterings of black and red, blending illustrative and punky qualities. Emma Corrin wore the dress on their press tour for Deadpool and has since been the subject of many styling requests. Now joining the latest NEWGEN recruits, Ewusie is in prime position to extend his creative vision and let’s just say, we’ll be watching closely.

LIZA KEANE

London-based designer Liza Keane combines psychiatry and sex appeal when creating for her eponymous label. There’s a certain intensity to her collections, one that feels both confronting and familiar. Beginning with the human form and seeking to design psychological armour that embodies a second skin quality, Keane’s garments are visceral and take on anthropomorphic facets. Remember Julia Fox’s Centaurian biker pants? Well, they’re one of Keane’s creations and are a pretty good representation of what Keane brings to the table. Seeking to mould a more subversive vision of femininity, Keane is interested in portraying narratives that aren't usually displayed on the runway. Her morbid fascinations come alive throughout her collections, and she’s stated before that the term ‘nightwear’ is an accurate description of a design DNA that seeks to articulate her innermost workings.

LOUTHER 

Olympia Schiele is a designer who rethinks how each of her pieces takes shape. With her London-based brand, Louther, recently announced as part of the BFC Newgen cohort, the designer brings a sculptural, intuitive approach to fashion that resists fast-cycle uniformity. With a background in product design and photography, Schiele builds garments like objects: twisted, tactile and mid-movement. Nothing feels overly finished, which is exactly the point. The pieces look like they're still thinking, caught between process and finished product. Following her Fashion East debut and a place on the racks at Dover Street Market, Louther has become a fixture in the ever-growing market for considered fashion. Her inclusion in the NEWGEN line-up confirms what many already suspected, that sensitivity, slowness and raw elegance are not just relevant, but radical.

OCTI

Jewellery designer Octi is designing pieces that feel instinctive, sculptural and unmistakably now. Her inclusion in this year’s BFC NEWGEN line-up is a nod to how the East London-based brand has carved a niche with its tactile, wax-formed pieces. Every ring, necklace, or pendant feels like it’s been worn by the elements: irregular, grounded and completely human. Octi hand carves each piece in her Hackney studio and works exclusively with recycled metals, showing off her disinterest in perfection but passion for the process. The result is jewellery that holds energy and presence. Octi’s jewellery is tactile, ergonomic, and actually feels like it belongs to someone. Not trend-led, just well-made and worth keeping.

The Ouze

The Ouze is a jewellery brand that has been quietly rewriting what modern jewellery looks like, and now, with founder Toby Vernon among the latest BFC NEWGEN recipients, it’s getting the recognition it deserves. Since launching in 2021, the Brighton-based brand has made its name by blending recycled precious metals with raw, heirloom-inspired forms. Each piece bears the mark of its maker, celebrating imperfections as a testament to the hand that shaped it. Drawing inspiration from heirloom jewellery and the storied past of Vernon’s hometown, Lewes, The Ouze channels a rebellious spirit into its creations. Think signet rings that feel ritualistic, chain links with character, and lab-grown gems that ensure ethical sourcing without compromising on beauty. With a background in fashion design from Westminster University, Vernon brings a unique perspective to jewellery making, resulting in pieces that feel both timeless and unconventional.