Gucci: The Art of Silk

There’s something undeniably chic about a silk scarf. It doesn’t beg for your attention, it commands it with quiet confidence. Worn by the likes of Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, and Jackie Kennedy, the silk scarf became a symbol of glamour and elegance. But at Gucci, silk isn’t just an accessory, it’s a medium through which a history of archive prints and patterns has been held, and an expression of identity that's been stitched into the house’s legacy since the 1950s.

With their new book release, Gucci: The Art of Silk (published by Assouline), it is clear that the brand perfected the art of silk long before it became Hollywood's symbol of je-ne-sais-quoi, a fashion girl’s go-to hair tie or a unique way to personalise a handbag handle. The silk scarf wasn’t a place for sweeping statements of logo overload, but a fabric canvas for creativity and Italian craft.

Of course, it all started with Tolda di Nave, a nautical-themed scarf made in collaboration with a Como-based silk house in 1958. Then came Flora, the 1966 print designed by Vittorio Accornero as a present for Princess Grace of Monaco. A bouquet of 27 flowers, depicted in 37 colours, painted with painstaking precision in just one week. A silk scarf so iconic, it spun off into dresses, homeware patterns, and the subject of ad campaigns, while being reimagined by each new creative director with their own personal interpretation. 

The book, edited by journalist Jo-Ann Furniss, unearths new stories and prints beyond the familiar. You’re taken through a visual diary of Accornero’s scarf designs through the ‘60s and ‘70s, and how different influences shaped even their earliest designs to reflect their artisanal roots. 

What’s particularly Gucci is how these motifs – nautical fantasies, prowling Animalia, equestrian influences and the Marina chain motif – have spilt into ready-to-wear time after time over decades. Silk patterns migrated onto shirts, dresses and eventually, jewellery, because once you’ve nailed a print, why not own it? Even the iconic GG monogram began in silk and has crept into every part of the brand’s identity. 

We’re seeing a return to the kinds of objects that carry meaning, things you inherit, and archive. Scarves are having a moment again. Not loud, but lingering. Gucci: The Art of Silk, much like the scarves themselves, simply shows up with craft, story and a little bit of fantasy.