Eye Spy

Since launching her namesake label over two decades ago, Athens-born designer Lito Karakostanoglou has quietly forged one of contemporary jewellery’s most distinctive signatures. Her brand, Lito Jewellery, is instantly recognised for its talismanic motifs - most notably the ever-present evil eye, reimagined through a lens of modern mysticism and refined craftsmanship.

What began as an instinctive, self-taught exploration has evolved into a sophisticated, deeply personal universe - each collection revealing another layer of Lito’s symbolic world. With a focus on emotion, protection and the beauty of nature, she continues to build a body of work that feels both intimate and universal; rooted in intuition yet refined by experience.

In our newest Female Founded feature, Lito reflects on creative longevity, independence, and the power of instinct in shaping a lasting brand.

Your brand was born from intuition rather than traditional training. What did being self-taught allow you to do that a more conventional path might have limited?

Being self-taught gave me a sense of complete creative freedom from the very beginning. I wasn’t confined by established rules or traditional expectations of what jewellery should be, so I could explore design in a far more instinctive and personal way.

It allowed me to experiment freely, not only with forms and aesthetics, but also with materials and techniques, without feeling there was a “correct” way to begin or create. I could follow my intuition at every stage, from the initial idea to the final piece.

In many ways, that lack of formal structure became a strength. It helped me develop a distinctive language and approach that might have been harder to achieve within a more conventional path.

Twenty-five years in any creative field is remarkable. What’s been the quiet work behind sustaining inspiration and business stability for that long?

Sustaining both inspiration and stability has really been about consistency and staying connected to why I started. Creativity isn’t constant, there’s a lot of quiet discipline behind it: showing up, experimenting, and evolving without losing your core identity.

On the business side, it’s about patience, adaptability, and building relationships over time. Growth has been gradual and organic, and I’ve learned to trust that rhythm.

Jewellery often tells a story about its wearer. How have you used storytelling to express your own evolution through your collections?

Storytelling has always been intuitive for me. Each collection reflects a moment, a feeling, or a phase I’ve experienced, even if it’s not literal.

As I’ve evolved, so has the work, through the materials I choose, the forms I’m drawn to, and the emotions I want to express. In that sense, the collections become a personal timeline, capturing different chapters of my life and creative journey.

You’ve built a brand outside of the traditional jewellery “system.” Was that choice deliberate, or simply how you found your voice?

It wasn’t deliberate in the beginning: it was how I found my voice. I followed an instinctive path rather than a traditional one, and that naturally shaped the brand.

Over time, it became a conscious choice to stay independent. It allowed me to protect the authenticity of the work and evolve on my own terms.

How do you balance the instinctive side of creation- the moments of pure inspiration- with the discipline of running a business?

I’m not sure I ever fully balance them, and I think that’s part of the reality. Creativity has always been the priority: the need to keep evolving, to reinvent, and to go deeper into the process.

The business side often takes more time, and it’s the part I’ve struggled with most. But over the years, I’ve learned to navigate that push and pull- accepting the balance isn’t perfect, but continuing to find a way for both to coexist.

Looking back, what have been the inflection points that redefined success for you, both personally and professionally?

There have been a few key moments that truly reshaped my understanding of success.

One was when I decided to close my business and move to Paris for two years. It was a conscious step back in order to move forward—to immerse myself in learning, to expand my perspective, and to invest in growth without immediate expectations. That experience redefined success as not just achievement, but evolution.

Another equally important moment was when I travelled to the Atacama Desert and stayed there for a month. The stillness and vastness of that landscape put everything into perspective. It helped me reconnect with what truly matters and clarified where I needed to focus my energy, both in my work and personal life.

These experiences taught me that success isn’t linear – it’s about having the courage to pause, to realign, and to choose growth, even when it means stepping away from what’s familiar.

As a woman leading a creative company, what parts of entrepreneurship have strengthened your sense of resilience or self-belief the most?

One of the most powerful aspects of entrepreneurship has been learning to embody many roles at once- designer, business owner, decision-maker, and leader. Navigating all these responsibilities has strengthened both my resilience and self-belief, because it demands constant adaptability and trust in my own judgement.

Equally important is staying aligned with my ethical values. Every decision I make goes through that internal compass, which has helped me build a business that feels authentic and meaningful. Over time, I’ve learned not to be distracted by what others are doing, but instead to stay focused on what truly resonates with me and the vision I want to create.

That clarity and alignment have been key to building both confidence and long-term resilience.

Lito Jewellery often feels charged with emotion and mysticism. Which collection or piece represents Lito the most - or perhaps was the hardest but most rewarding to produce?

Definitely the Cosmic Guardians Collection. It feels closest to my heart because it brings together everything that defines Lito – technical complexity, creative depth, and strong symbolism.

The idea behind the collection came from a simple but powerful realisation: we cannot imitate nature. Through this collection, I found a way to embrace it, to pay respect to it, and to adorn ourselves with its essence rather than attempt to compete with it.

It was both challenging and deeply rewarding to produce, as it pushed me on every level, from craftsmanship to storytelling. What makes it especially meaningful to me is its symbolism - protection, interconnectedness, and a deep respect for biodiversity.

For me, it’s not just jewellery – it’s a way of expressing our relationship with nature and honouring its beauty in a thoughtful, intentional way.

With longevity comes the challenge of remaining curious. How do you keep evolving without losing the core spirit of your brand?

For me, evolution comes naturally. As the sole designer behind the brand, the core spirit is something I carry within me- it’s instinctive and present in everything I create.

I stay curious by continuously turning inward. I draw inspiration from what feels true in each moment- what I want to see women wearing, how I want them to feel, and how I want them to embrace both their strength and femininity.

Equally important is staying connected to how women are evolving in today’s world. Their needs, their roles, and their expressions of identity are constantly shifting, and I see it as essential for the brand to reflect and support that evolution.

That balance—between staying true to my essence and being in tune with the present—is what allows the brand to grow while remaining authentic.

If you could offer your younger self one insight about creative independence and the long view of building something lasting, what would it be?

I would tell my younger self to always trust her intuition and stay deeply in tune with herself. To constantly question, challenge, and refine her perspective, without ever losing that inner voice.

I’d also remind her to treat every creation with the utmost respect, because what we create has a life far beyond us. These pieces become part of a legacy; they carry meaning, emotion, and intention long after we are gone.

Understanding that early on gives a deeper sense of responsibility, but also a profound sense of purpose.

See more at LITO FINE JEWELLERY