Seed to Sew 

Buying an item of clothing, I am inevitably met with a series of (often contradictory) demands. How can every piece be sustainably and ethically made, affordable and accessible but still high quality and well-fitting, and something I actually want to wear? There is a tendency with ethical brands to skimp on beauty and creativity to appeal to a more utilitarian taste, and, alternatively, a more harmful tendency of style-forward fast-fashion brands to substitute quality and sustainability for a quick trend. In short, shopping can be a philosophical minefield. 

Lucky for us, Estethica is willing to do a lot of the heavy lifting. Founded by former fashion designer Orsola de Castro and husband Filippo Ricci with Tamsin Blanchard and Roxanne Houshmand-Howell, Estethica combines ethics with aesthetics to platform young designers and, in her words, “pioneer supply chains.” A pop-up showroom and store in TANK GPS is their latest project, showcasing four creators whose work blends transparent production with innovative, beautiful design.

We’ve been following the work of Jens Laugesen since his launch in the early 00s. His most recent brand, Re/Ject Project, sees him source leathers leftover from the luxury supply chain in India, repurposing these forgotten cuts into stylish, imaginative pieces. He favours the idea of “reconstruction”: reinventing old silhouettes such as the bomber or trench from the ground up whilst using old materials to do so. 

Gather Gather is a collaboration between Iro Iro, a Jaipur-based brand by Bhaavya Goenka which upcycles pre-waste textiles and infuses traditional Indian silhouettes with a modern flair, and Pinanki, a CSM-graduate designer whose experimental, free-flowing pieces are made from donated or found materials and are therefore one of a kind. As well as showcasing their individual works, the pop-up debuts their first collection as a pair, “Memories of the Future”: elegant, robust tailoring with clear nods to saris and other South Asian silhouettes. 

Finally, Oshadi Collective, a unisex brand who takes seed-to-sew seriously. The founder, Nishanth Chopra, has textiles in his DNA: growing up in Erode, South India, he began the brand with his wife, sister, and just a couple acres. Now they have over 250 acres of regenerative farmland upon which all their materials are grown. They work diligently with artisans and weavers to create each made-to-order garment, and suffice to say, they are beautiful. I was particularly drawn to a drop waist chequered midi skirt – a surprise to no one – and their collection with Monad by Daniel Olantuji, a CSM-graduate whose pieces include a jacket made of fig tree bark. 

The pop-up is here for a good time but not a long time. Pop into 91-93 Great Portland Street to explore the collections and celebrate these independent designers, open the 26th and 27th March 2026.