Fendi
The in-house Fendi design team, lead by Silvia Venturini Fendi, created its own bespoke fabric. This special textile, made from corduroy’s distinctive pattern, was used throughout the entire collection. Shiny shearlings, heavy scarves and wools coats were executed with a superb craftsmanship. The rich textures in boxy jackets and fur patchworks were paired with tailored trousers in a serious colour palette of greys and navy.
Gucci
On a very short notice, Alessandro Michele, managed to re-do an entire collection and redesign the set and stage of his show. The much-anticipated collection brought back vintage patterns and 60s silhouettes from the Gucci archive. Slouchy red suits, oversized coats and boho blouses were at the centre. With a warm earth-toned colour palette of browns, khaki and red, lace and retro prints clashed against burnt orange trousers and socks with sandals. Michele and his team, no doubt did an outstanding job with this last minute debut collection.
Bottega Veneta
For this collection, Thomas Maier envisioned a man “who doesn’t think about clothes; ‘It’s cold, so I’ll wear a cardigan.’”, and he managed to make casual look sophisticated. That nonchalance explained the unconventional mix and match of fabrics and colours. The collection’s careless, easy air was matched by tailored pieces like double breasted suits, jackets and collars.
Calvin Klein
Italo Zucchelli built his collection with black and white, old-school noir films in mind. The range of greys in the screen were his starting point. Parting from there, he infused a 40s silhouette with futuristic details. The great drop-shoulder tweed coats, vaguely retro cropped aviator jackets and high waisted trousers a la Captain Sky, seemed reminiscent of a diesel punk aesthetic. Granite, Gotham, Charcoal, Basalt and many other degradations of grey coloured his fall collection. We can rest assured that these greys stretched beyond the standard, 50 shades.
Prada
During this show, Miuccia Prada did something never seen before. She was presenting both Fall menswear and Pre-Fall womenswear simultaneously. Blending men and women’s collections couldn’t be more timely, gender and feminism are debates that are very current and polemic. On every seat there was a printed card that read; “Gender is a context and context is often gendered”. Both collections had a simple, uniform-like aesthetic. Shared style belted-coats, double breasted closings and a serious, dark colour palette made of this double show, a severe, elegant fashion moment.
Versace
It was a simple refreshing collection from Versace this season. A step away from the excess and gladiatoral elements that are so emblematic of this maison. Instead, Donatella focused on silhouettes and cut. “No decoration, no colour, no print”, she said. A range of soft neutrals coloured the collection and the cut was soft and comfortable. Hooded coats, flowy blousons and long rib-knit tops were the most extreme pieces. Yet, the looks held the typically-Versace athletic and masculine touch.
Jill Sander
Milan saw Rodolfo Paglialunga’s debut for menswear. His first men’s collection was elegant, masculine and oversized below the waist. Colour-wise, it was evident that for him, orange is indeed the new black. Bright notes of orange and yellow were paired with soft neutrals. The tricky volumes and strange proportions added an interesting touch, but it was the coats and their exquisite craftsmanship that took the spotlight.
Text by Alexis Barron