Arthur Arbesser
Always strong with colour and pattern, Arbesser didn't disappoint, with a closing show on Monday full of powerful graphics and silhouettes. His Austrian sensibility comes through with sharp modernist tendencies and I love his fascinating and intellectual woman.
Attico
Started by two trained designers who seem to have been eclipsed by their street-style star status, Attico’s collection was based around a vintage bathrobe. The velvet dresses and embroidered pieces were exquisitely tailored and shaped for a 1940s decadence that the fashion world seems to be craving at the moment. Mark my words - this is one label to watch.
Callens
Inspired by the founder’s travels and jet-setting ways, the looks from this collection were athleisure done on a luxury level. The puffer jackets, cashmere track pants and easy sweaters beg to be worn on a plane and walked off to your destination with style. The trend for well-made, comfortable clothes for travel, gym and lunch seems to be taking off and Callens is a beautiful brand to lead the pack.
Erika Cavallini
Erika Cavallini's brand of Italian chic with a twist has been a quiet favourite amongst fashion insiders. Her store on Sant’ Andrea in Milan is a mecca for fashionistas and while last season, she debuted on the catwalk, this season, she presented her autumn collection in the beautiful Chamber of Commerce (with Liberty print wallpaper, natch), where models glided by, close up to the audience in each room. This way, you could really see the detail and the clothes in a more intimate and effective way. An army of models stood on marble stairs but the audience was encouraged to climb and clamber among them - a charming way to see, touch and feel a great collection.
Gucci
There's no denying it - Alessandro Michele's Gucci effect can be felt reverberating throughout Milan (and all the other fashion capitals) with his special brand of individuality and quirk, combined with masterful craftsmanship and techniques. The 70-odd looks on the catwalk were impressive but after seeing the clothes up close in the showroom, I had to hand it to the Gucci team – the almost couture-like craftsmanship was breathtaking. Pull them apart from the catwalk-styled looks and you are left with great sweaters, pleated skirts and immaculate tailoring. Gucci just keeps getting better and better – and we’re all in.
Jil Sander
Probably Rodolfo Paglialunga’s best collection for Jil Sander to date, this show felt like an authentic return to the “Jil Sander look” women flocked to during the 1990s. Tailored coats and clever dresses exuded the minimalist approach of this season and worked very well indeed.
Ports 1961
With Natasa Cagalj’s direction (she was former head of studio at Stella McCartney and Lanvin), this was a powerful show that buzzed with powerful front-row buyers and press. A sharp colour palette and interesting take on tailoring gave a fresh injection into a label not necessarily known in the past for innovation, and has become another highlight of the Milan fashion week.
Prada
It's no surprise that Mrs Prada followed on from her powerful menswear and pre-fall shows in January to show us her sailor wenches with denim corsets tied around tweed coats and printed silks. The styling for the show was just as impactful as the clothes themselves, with little (usable) books hanging from necklace chains and "tricks" (e.g. charms, in Prada language) pimping up accessories. Perhaps the big surprise was that two bags shown on the catwalk were immediately available to buy in four locations (NY, HK, London, Paris), with Prada being the first big Italian luxury house to make a statement about “See Now, Buy Now.”