Last week, London Collections Men kicked off the menswear calendar and got us very excited for the autumn/winter 2016 season. If LC:M whet your appetite, there’s plenty more to come. Tomorrow marks the beginning of Milan Moda Uomo, the city's biannual men’s fashion week, running until 19 January. Milan has a reputation for being home to fashion’s heavy-hitters, with established brands on its roster including Prada and Armani. And while it doesn’t hold quite the same reputation as LC:M for showcasing young, emerging designers, the event does much to set the menswear agenda. 

Milan, along with Paris, is a staple on the men’s fashion week calendar. There’s no denying that men’s fashion is on the rise, with LC:M launching four years ago and New York’s own menswear week kicking off last year. In response to demand, Moda Uomo is growing as well, with 39 shows and 47 presentations this year. Milan’s menswear extravaganza comes hot on the heels of Pitti Uomo, a trade show for men’s fashion held in Florence.

Last season, Milan men’s fashion week presented some interesting trends – from Prada and Moschino’s graphic prints, athleisure clothes courtesy of Jil Sander and Dolce & Gabbana, to the utilitarian trend championed by Bottega Veneta. Over the past few seasons, Milan menswear has moved toward a more casual mood and we expect this to continue for AW16. Read on for our top five picks for this season.

Au Jour Le Jour Garçon



Au Jour Le Jour, launched in 2010 by Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez, is a breath of fresh air on the Milan fashion calendar. There is no stuffiness in the Au Jour Le Jour brand, which is inspired by “real” people and the beauty of everyday life. The men’s SS15 was a lot of wacky fun – think sequins and cartoon unicorns. For their most recent, SS16 offering, the brand retained its fun and zany side (including a bright-coloured floral suit) while introducing a more subdued colour palette and classically cut jackets, trousers and shorts. We wonder if the label will take a more restrained approach or crank up the volume again.

Gucci



Last season’s menswear collection by creative director Alessandro Michele led the way in androgynous dressing; slender male models sported pussy bow blouses, retro prints and flowing hair. All the Gucci mainstays appeared - from the horsebit motif to the iconic floral pattern - but Michele’s modernised, eclectic vintage aesthetic placed the label firmly in the present. Androgyny wasn’t the only thing on the menu at the show: the designer also brought in a New Punk vintage influence from the ‘70s, with a healthy dose of geek chic. His playful and nonchalant vision for the brand has all of fashion excited for more, and we can’t wait for the brand’s next chapter in menswear.

Marcelo Burlon County of Milan



Marcelo Burlon’s fashion moniker is County of Milan, a nod to the importance of his Italian background. Burlon is part of the growing army of people known as “slashers” – he’s a creative director/DJ/nightlife extraordinaire/photographer, among other things. Whilst the bio on his website is somewhat of a mystery (referring to the designer as “the great officiator of a thrillingly contemporary melting pot”), it does hit upon the sheer diversity of his influences. County of Milan was born as a t-shirt label but has now expanded to a full range. Motifs in his SS16 menswear collection stretched from skulls to surfing, all with a streetwear touch. This collection was more experimental that his first AW15 offering, with brighter colours and graphic prints adorned with spiky headgear and flamboyant performance art. We expect even bigger and bolder collections from Burlon in the future.

No.21



Twenty-one sure is Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s lucky number, as his label is going from strength to strength. Established by Dell’Acqua in 2010 after he parted ways with his eponymous label, the name comes from his birthdate and lucky number. While the core aesthetic remains similar to his previous label, No. 21 has a more casual, laid-back approach. Dell’Acqua took the brand in an entirely new direction for the last No.21 menswear show, ditching his previous graphic and structured aesthetic for a looser and softer look. Gone were his tight-fitting, knitted jumpers and trousers, with a new range of silhouettes and styles, from overalls to vests. We’re eager to see if the designer will continue on this trajectory.

Versace



Donatella is no stranger to drama. Cast your mind back to the Roman-themed SS15 menswear collection, where models sported Versace’s take on barely-there togas. Or the last menswear show, which was inspired by Lawrence of Arabia, complete with sand and billowing silk scarves. The desert colour palette reflected the Arabian nights aesthetic: sand and earth tones were side by side with pops of jewel colours, and the tailoring was long, loose and layered. For this season we’re most interested in whether Donatella keeps the aesthetic relaxed. Also, the designer recently made her Instagram debut, so we’ll be keeping an eye on how her menswear preparations play out on social media – we’re definitely hoping for a backstage glimpse or two.

Text by Prudence Wade