In a season where the very existence of stand-alone menswear shows is up for discussion, the feelings of uncertainty hung over Milan like a giant question mark. The result was that designers either played it safe, doing what they do best, (and who could blame them?) or, as in Prada’s case, they  took a hike on a voyage of self-discovery.

Here, Caroline Issa highlights five collections that represent the diverse and fluid attitude that will be breezing through men’s wardrobes for spring/summer 2017.

MSGM

 

It was time for a 1980s revival with acid-washed jeans and a raver’s soundtrack. MSGM always offer colour and impact without sacrificing comfort – a lot of the guys in the office will be taking this collection up!

Best for: Re-living all Acid-house parties – don’t forget your smiley-face badge

Gucci

 

Our shopping lists for this ever-eclectic collection for men and women just keeps growing, for Michele is clever to always expand without reinvention.The new Gucci vocabulary is so firmly entrenched, after such a short period of time, that there is plenty for the Gucci fans.

Best for: The man who has everything but who can always do with one more monogrammed bomber jacket

Prada

 

“Wanderlust and travellers” comprised Prada’s philosophical take on the polemical issue of migration as embodied in their SS17 collection. The results were lightweight nylon raincoats, practical hiking gear and Teva-esque shoes. Miuccia returned to the safety of the brand's original nylon rucksack but inflated it so that it became big enough to contain all the travel essentials.

Best for: The gap-year traveller with more style than sense

Damir Doma

 

A poetic collection of loosely tailored kimonos and tunics worn over cropped trousers. The culottes were left with ends gently unravelling and ribbons changing; clothes just the right side of disheveled.

Doma’s silhouette is loose – just the thing for an artistic type who is comfortable in his own skin.

Best for: Lost poets

Versace

 

It's a softer world for Donatella, more lightweight and loose, where tailoring mixes with activewear. The collection was inspired by the film she made with Bruce Weber, which she showed just ahead of the collection. For the film, Weber wanted to get out of their comfort zones so they went to Chicago and he street-cast a group of dancers. The result was fresh and real (for Versace!). Her ode to Prince came out in the few womenswear looks which will debut a "seasonless" collection to be found in stores at the end of the year.

Best for: Action men who actually work out