Although New York Fashion Week has wrapped-up, its many sublime fashion moments are still consuming our every thought. A sultry yet demure aesthetic was prevalent across the collections with lux, rococo fabrics used to create boudoir silhouettes with long hems and high necks. Fur-trimmed patent leather coats emerged as a key piece across the catwalks, featured in Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein and Proenza Schouler. Marc Jacobs’ show forever-known for his compelling, high-octane narratives, left the industry abuzz with a punchy, Goth club-kid vision – achieved with dark and glitzy fabrics and sequins, feathers, velvet and fur. Our editor-in-chief Caroline Issa was show-side for many of the week’s delights and she shares her personal highlights below.

 

Altuzarra

"Joseph Altuzarra loves to play with aesthetic clashes – and in turn, his clients love him for it. He certainly wowed his audience on Sunday with a typical flourish of mismatched prints and silhouettes. There were a ton of investment pieces on show, including an array of ditsy-printed leatherwear that I won’t soon forget. While treading the line between ultra-femininity and toughness, one thing’s clear: Altuzarra designs for a powerful, commanding woman."

Brandon Maxwell

"On Wednesday night, Lady Gaga, Nicola Formichetti and New York’s glitterati all crammed into the intimate and iconic Monkey Bar to witness Brandon Maxwell's second collection. The thirty-year-old is perhaps best known as being the stylist of his BFF: Gaga, but his design credentials were proven beyond any shadow of a doubt with his series of glamorous, sculptural evening looks akin to the modern aesthetic of Balenciaga. Featuring a stellar model casting that included Imaan Hammam, Romee Strijd and Bhumika Arora, there was a real sense that a vote of confidence had been cast for Maxwell’s emerging brand. We’re sure we’ll be seeing these looks again, worn by Maxwell’s fans in no time."

Hugo Boss

"At Hugo Boss, Jason Wu continued playing on the themes he has now fully imbued into the brand’s DNA. Architectural shapes sat alongside feminine, fluid silhouettes, illustrating the German house’s technical brilliance in their exacting construction. An unexpected palette of rust, tangy green and brown will be a welcome injection of sophistication next fall. Who knew two and a half years later that Hugo Boss womenswear would be making the must-have lists? But the time has come..."

Proenza Schouler

"A seasoned highlight on the NYFW schedule, the Proenza Schouler show was a typical triumph of textural delights and relaxed vibes. Standout pieces included seductively-slashed knit dresses, sturdy, patent coats and an array of playful it-bags. Judging by the gasps of glee heard from women while exiting the show, the collection will be a hit. But, given that the brand is testing the waters for in-season retailing by making select pieces immediately available to buy, they’ll be relieved to know they won’t have to wait long at all for feedback."

Sies Marjan

"It’s always exciting to witness a debut and this one was particularly special. Set in a beaten-up penthouse with a power front-row in attendance, Sander Lak of Dries Van Noten put on a beautiful show that lived up to the anticipatory buzz. The collection carried a similarly sensual relationship with colour and texture to Lak’s previous house (where he held the position of head designer). With vibrant parachute dresses, slouchy knitwear and coats, we reckon retailers will be clamouring to snap these up."