Made to Order Labels

Fashion : Think

17 March 2021

Because We're Curious | Made-to-Order Labels

Image courtesy of Maison Cléo

Have you ever wondered what really makes an item sustainable? Or debated the qualities of an "it" item? Maybe you've pondered the future of retail in a post-pandemic world?

In a strange cycle of 'normal' life starting, pausing and restarting, more questions than answers have arisen in our daily lives. But in an effort to understand our surroundings better, we've decided to get some answers.

We're starting with what we know best and that is the questions driving the fashion and beauty industry forward. From topics on sustainability to the merits of organic beauty, we'll be digging into the questions that have perplexed us and piqued our curiosity; and to do so, we enlist the help of industry experts to get the full run-down.

As sustainability concerns continue to weigh on fashion brands and efforts are made to undo harmful practices, for others it is the skeleton on which they are built. Made to-order labels are finally getting their share of the spotlight, with one-off creations more affordable than couture as well as more bespoke than a visit to the tailors to take up a hem an inch or two. Many successful MTO independent labels are upcycling deadstock materials, while others source new fabrics sustainably but limit their collection drops per year. Some even go a step further and produce a limited amount of just one item, not with the purpose of creating exclusivity but because the production can only actually only yield a certain amount of supply. The buzz from the growing pre-order lists and amplified pleas to restock are just an incidental benefit.

But what makes them sustainable? How much are they helping to thwart fast fashion and convince the masses to spend money on bespoke items? Are they the future of fashion or part of a cycle that we’ve come around to only to move on from yet again when the next fresh concept comes around? We spoke to the founders of unique made-to-order labels to find out more.

Why are made-to-order brands thriving right now?
"Being locked in our houses for the last year, I think this has given a lot of people the chance to pause and reflect on the decisions they're making in their lives. As the awareness of waste within the fashion industry continues to grow, there has also been a growth in the demand for shopping independent labels and limited pieces", says Camilla Ley, Managing Director at Insta-famous label House of Sunny which produces only two collections a year. And indeed, as the awareness of responsible sourcing challenges continues to grow, so does transparency. Nina of RIANNA + NINA, experts in hunting down the finest vintage treasures, comments, "I think education around this movement has greatly increased over the past decade as well as resources enabling designers to produce better. Consumers are demanding, more than ever, insight into production and they care about their environmental impact. For the younger generation, this is simply the norm. Therefore, I believe sustainability is very much part of the future of fashion."

RIANNA + NINA Blu Collection

How do made-to-order brands stay relevant to a customer's sartorial desires when producing less collections?
As well as giving peace of mind to the eco-conscious consumer, buying from a made-to-order business lends itself a sense of exclusivity and luxury. Knowing that you are one of ten people in the world who owns a one-off shirt, upcycled from the hilltops of deadstock fabric mountains, that gives one an addictive feeling. But the exclusivity associated with these businesses is different to a limited edition sneaker drop in which the hype falls as quickly as it was built up. So, how do you stay relevant without constantly producing new clothes or dropping an 'it' item? One answer is to listen to your audience. "As a brand, we rarely focus on trends but instead focus on our growing community to really create pieces that our girl will treasure in their wardrobe for years to come. Each piece is always crafted with its own unique detail that we're proud to put our name against", Camilla explains.

Another brand that has written off trends and instead focuses on designing timeless clothing with a Parisian flair is the mother-daughter brand, Maison Cléo. One glance at their website lets you know that timing is of the essence if you want to snag one of their iconic large-collared organza blouses made from deadstock fabric once exclusive to large fashion houses - literally. When the timer on each item counts down, you best be ready to click 'add to basket' before it's gone for good. But for Marie Dewet – the daughter in the duo – this exclusivity is nothing we haven't seen before: "It's a form of exclusivity, of course and we try to make it accessible but [this] is nothing new, up until the mid-to-late 20th Century, people [were] either making their own clothes, or purchasing items made uniquely for themselves, it was the norm."

Maison Cléo

Are made-to-order brands the way forward? Do they pose a sufficient threat to fast fashion?
We know that people want one-of-a-kind pieces and are willing to pay the price but made-to-order labels are still largely niche. Rather than the downfall of fast fashion feeling imminent, it still feels rather far off. For Sarah Bartlett, founder of Carnations London (which sources biodegradable fabric), fast fashion can only decline when we change the mindsets of consumers: "I don't see made-to-order as a direct competitor to fast fashion. I don't think the customer who buys a £3 dress will necessarily want to pay £100+ for a more sustainable made-to-order option right away. However, the more exposure made-to-order gets, people are able to see the value in a garment, and perhaps that will make them question prices in the future." As Sarah says, the onus falls on the consumer when fast fashion shows no sign of slowing down and rather, has caught onto the appeal of these independent labels. Maison Cléo has often found itself a victim of large fast fashion conglomerates releasing copycat designs and their tight-knit community is quick to make the truth known to the public. On this Marie can only express frustration, "I hope people ask themselves how they manage to sell the same blouse at such a low price. [The reality is because of]... the [poor] quality of the fabric and [production done] by people paid a few cents and in horrible working conditions."

Carnations

"Sustainability" is a spectrum and one made-to-order business is not identically eco-friendly in the same way as another. One may source and upcycle offcuts from larger labels while another may be involved in creating new technology that recycles old materials instead. But if there's one thing that made-to-order brands have in common it's that they've reignited and responded to people's desire to wear something special and timeless whilst being fully informed of where and how their clothes are being made. They may not be the ultimate saving grace we would hope to end disposable fashion, but we think they could certainly be a large part of the solution.