Burberry

 
Daniel Lee’s debut for Burberry saw the designer draw from all things British. With mallard duck motifs, rose prints, Cadbury-coloured checks and cosy woollen hot-water bottles, Lee captured the essence of autumn winter in Land of the Rose.

Erdem

 
Erdem found inspiration under the roof of his Bloomsbury townhouse for AW23. Remembering the fallen women, often driven by insanity, of the Victorian era the designer presented a ghostly collection with volume, lace, taffeta and tulle in abundance.

Emilia Wickstead

 
Inspiration from the crime drama Twin Peaks was not an obvious fit for designer Emilia Wickstead who turns out a gorgeous ball gown more often than your 1990s Gen z inspired look, but in signature style she counterbalanced her “ grungy” collection with floral prints and floor-grazing dresses.

Christopher Kane

 
It wouldn't be a Christopher Kane show without a heavy dose of wit and this season was no exception. The designer offset his billowing ruffles, floral embroideries and structurally sound sculptural tailoring, with bizarre AI-generated repeat prints of piglets, chicks and rats.

Simone Rocha

 
Irish-born Simone Rocha was inspired by the tradition of Lughnasadh, a Gaelic harvest festival for AW23. Her collection was intertwined with historic references and fashioned from straw and raffia with whimsy bow embroideries.

Huishan Zhang

 
After three years back in China during the pandemic, for Huishan Zhang’s own physical return to London for his show (done in the past few years without his presence), he dressed Hitchcock’s femme fatales. With sequin ballgowns, ostrich feathers and sharp tailoring the collection marked the designer's IRL come back with a bang