Chloé’s Old-Meets-New Accessory
Just Because... | Jul 1, 2024
Cover image photographed by Lucio Martus and modelled by Alith at Storm Model Management
Back in February, Chemena Kamali returned to her design roots in a full circle moment. Beginning her career at Chloé as part of Phoebe Philo’s team, she later rejoined as Design Director under Clare Waight Keller’s helm in 2012. Most recently, from 2016, she was Women’s Ready to Wear Design Director for Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent and yet this Spring, she finally stepped out of the shadows and returned to the mothership in her newest (and perhaps most natural?) role as Creative Director. Reviving the iconic Chloé girl we all remember and love, Chemema rekindled that distinctive style of tousled-hair and je ne sais quoi sensuality for which we looked to the French Maison, one of the first launched by a woman back in 1952.
With her debut collection, Chemena brought back just the right amount of boho chic, to place her (and her collection) firmly on our fashion radars. The New York Times's Vanessa Friedman describes the Chloé girl as “the sort of person for whom the word girl was less a judgement on age than a state of mind; the sort of person with a cool, somewhat careless magnetism, who had just enough accessibility that everyone couldn’t help thinking “goal.”” She added, “I can’t think of another label that has such an imaginary person, rather than a logo, to embody it.”
As the front row was lined with now signature platform clogs, models walked the runway in sashaying capes, airy ruffled chiffons and flared denim all while carrying a reimagined icon. A tribute to a Phoebe-designed bag from the brand’s archive, Chemena’s version of the Bracelet bag is defined by its smooth crescent moon silhouette crafted in supple calfskin and mixed metal hardware, trussing it up to latch onto a removable hook-ring handle. Add the removable strap and you can wear it multiple ways if you want a hands-free option. Slouchy and easy for day, yet just-the right amount of hardware for it to feel elevated enough for an evening out.
It's fair to say the Bracelet Bag hasn't left our consciousness since the show, not least because Chemena’s convincing Chloé debut re-established the brand's easy-breezy roots, a welcome refresh in a time when we need some lightness in our lives.