Behind the Seams with... Moms
Discover a highly personal collection from Omar Macalino Salkini
Fashion Discovery | Aug 15, 2024
With Filipino and Syrian heritage, Omar Macalino Salkini brings a hands-on (and highly personal) approach to a new collection of wardrobe classics.
by Caroline Issa
Macalino Salkini (aka Omar) is a fashion designer known for his distinctive approach to streetwear, particularly through his brand "Moms." His multi-cultural background informs his designs, as does his born-and-bred London lived experience. By carving a niche in the fashion world by blending his cultural influences and innovative techniques into his pieces, Macalino brings his experiences working for the likes of Paria Farzaneh and Phoebe Philo into a new orbit.
The "Moms" brand, which Omar founded in 2023, stands out for its unique use of screen-printing technology. This technique involves layering multiple coats of paint to create a 3D bubble effect on the fabric, giving his clothing a signature, textured look.
His latest collection's lookbook shoot got our attention with a very local location in East London. According to Omar, "We shot the campaign in places that I usually go to - quite literally. We shot at the bus stop by my house, as well as by the man selling fruit and veg by my local overground station where I go to buy my groceries everyday. [We] exchange greetings every time I go past the shop. Another location was Ridley Road market - where I go fairly often, as their produce is cheaper and better quality and I can haggle a little bit as well."
There's been an embrace of the local hangouts when it comes to designers' lookbooks and activities. Think Tata Naka's Church Street Market shoot for FW23, or Burberry's controversial Norman's Cafe takeover. But for Omar, shooting in his local haunts was just as much an aesthetic decision as a personal one. "In general I love the energy there anyways, it makes me feel calm in a weird way even though it is a chaotic place."
When we asked Omar what his newest collection silhouettes and the fabrics he chose to work with said about his brand, he responded "One look features the "9-2-5" tailored hoodie jacket, crafted from deadstock pinstripe wool suiting... This jacket is paired with a wrap skirt layered over a ruffled skirt made from plaid crinkled cotton. This ensemble draws inspiration from my Filipino heritage, specifically the Baro't Saya. The Baro't Saya traditionally consists of four parts: a blouse, a long skirt, a shoulder kerchief, and a short rectangular cloth over the skirt, typically made from Pina silk."
Twisting the classics seems to be a red thread for Moms. "My goal [for other outfits] was to achieve a comfort level similar to wearing a blue Nike Tech fleece tracksuit, aligning with the city's casual atmosphere. I aimed to design an outfit that embodies a laid-back, everyday feel."
In other outfits, things are not quite what they seem. "I ... designed [an outfit for] elegant evening out, offering a sophisticated twist on a casual denim set. Instead of traditional denim, this outfit is crafted from moleskin, providing a refined yet understated feel. I wanted to create something that mirrored familiar pieces in my wardrobe but elevated them to a level of luxury and a hint of extravagance. The jacket is inspired by vintage workwear, but instead of the usual rugged construction, it's lined with silk and quilted."
His recent trunkshow earlier this summer was a sell-out success. "We had my friend Seniz Jones run an illustration workshop for the new collection - just as a way for people to interact with the garments at another level rather than looking at it on a rail and trying it on. It also allowed people to understand the garment from a detailed perspective - just to note! We sold out of all the tickets and the skirts on the rail that evening which was amazing!"
This highly personal project includes the making. "All the looks were sewn and patterned cut by myself, reflecting a hands-on approach to craftsmanship," Omar shared. "As my work evolves, I aim to infuse more of my Filipino and Syrian heritage. However, for this capsule collection, my focus was on creating everyday garments without external influence dictating what to add for grandiosity or extravagance on the runway. These pieces are simply about functionality and versatility, suitable for everyday wear, whether it's for work, running errands, or going out. There's nothing overly extravagant here, just clothes designed for real life."
When community and collection connect so beautifully, we here at Because know we're looking at something special. So keep an eye out for the brand's new drops, as you may just see them shooting their newest pieces by your local veggie shop.