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Francesca Lake SS25

The multidisciplinary artist balancing the conceptual with the wearable launches her SS25 digital film presentation

Because Meets | Sept 23, 2024

 With a vision that extends far beyond the clothes alone, Lake’s design ethos is an all embodying, multidisciplinary process

Text by Caroline Issa

At the tail end of London Fashion Week, there is one digital film presentation that everyone is waiting for. Step up Francesca Lake, a designer whose work is rooted in duality and has been a buzzy name since her graduate CSM show. A self-described multidisciplinary artist, she moves fluidly between fashion, film, and installation art, though she finds herself continually drawn back to clothing as her primary medium. "A big part of what I’ve always tried to do is create garments that convey a certain emotion," she tells me, speaking from Jamaica, where she'd been finalising her latest collection before jetting back to London, where she divides her time between. "Whether you agree or disagree, you feel something. I like the tangibility of it. I like this idea of when you put the garment on, what does that say about the personality that is in it?"

Francesca’s journey is one of rapid ascent. After Central Saint Martins, she quickly established herself as a rising star in the fashion world, known for her ability to balance the conceptual with the wearable. Her designs, which have caught the eye of both celebrity stylists and fashion insiders, are as much about storytelling as they are about aesthetics. "I think I managed to find a good balance between the conceptual and the wearable where I didn’t have to dilute the story too much without having to compromise the drama," she reflects. 

Her latest project is an 18-look collection that spans menswear and womenswear—her most ambitious yet. "It’s stressful because it’s a bigger collection than I’ve done before," she admits. "But hopefully, it will turn out good." This collection, like much of her work, is deeply personal and culturally resonant. It draws inspiration from her Jamaican heritage, exploring themes of socioeconomic contrast. "This collection is about contrasting different socioeconomic groupings within Jamaican society, this idea of uptown versus downtown," she explains. "It’s really about celebrating the working class and looking at social mobility."

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Francesca’s work often grapples with the complexities of identity and culture, and she uses fashion as a vehicle for social commentary. Her previous collections have tackled colonialism, economic disparity, and the interplay between sacred and secular spaces in Jamaican society. "The first project that I did was about church and the dance hall," she says. "And so this [SS25] one started as a part of a manifesto during my MA at [CSM]. It was about contrasting different socioeconomic groupings within Jamaican society... and hopefully, I’m able to represent the culture properly."

Navigating the fashion industry today comes with its challenges, particularly when it comes to maintaining focus. Francesca, however, embraces the complexity. "For me in particular, being a bit multidisciplinary—even though garment construction and fashion design is a principal discipline—just trying to find a way to balance all of them where it doesn’t seem like I’m doing everything, there is a focus," she explains. "I think that has been the most challenging—just representing yourself from a very strong perspective where you’re not all over the place."

This season marks a significant milestone for Francesca: her first official spot on the London Fashion Week schedule. Although she has showcased her work before, this is her debut as an independent designer. "It’s a digital presentation, so a bit more manageable for us," she says with a mix of excitement and apprehension. "But yeah, it’ll be exciting. I just hope that it translates in the way that I envision."

Francesca’s approach to fashion is not just about clothing; it’s about creating a world, a narrative that customers can engage with. Her collections do not adhere strictly to the traditional fashion calendar; instead, they are released thematically, with a focus on direct-to-consumer engagement. "I do try to stick to a certain calendar—spring/summer, fall/winter—just in terms of timing and getting everything done," she explains. "But we sell directly to our customer via our website. I think that helps us to gauge what's working, and in the last year, we’ve been able to see how people respond to the brand and what type of things they gravitate to."

"Fashion is the main means of communicating for me," she says. "The others—film, prose, sculpture, installation—are just a part of that story. But the main focus is on conveying that persona, that emotion, and an important social commentary through clothing."

Francesca's work is a reminder of the power of clothing to tell stories, to challenge perceptions, and to provoke thought. As she continues to grow her brand and explore new creative avenues, one thing is clear: Francesca Lake is a designer who is just getting started.

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