LFW AW24 Highlights: Part 1

Overlooking the River Thames on an unexpectedly bright Wednesday afternoon, Preen kickstarted London Fashion Week with a long-awaited, spur-of-the-moment, off-schedule runway. Their first show since Autumn/Winter 2022, creative directors Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi were inspired by “the beauty in imperfection”, and the life of Gothic novelist Mary Shelley.

Their dark, romantic, almost grungey inspirations were realised in signature big floral prints (which also spread across homewares and wallpaper) oversized bomber jackets, sheer embellished evening dresses, lace veils, billowing bustles and gathered miniskirts. Making a compelling comeback, the brand set the tone for a season steeped in Victorian nostalgia, tactile flourishes and London’s enduring underground.

A stately escape from the jam-packed schedule, Huishan Zhang took audiences to Westminster’s Banqueting House for his Autumn/Winter 2024 presentation. Looking to silver screen scarlets of 1950s Hollywood, Ingrid Bergman and Anna Magnani, the actress's legendary feud was imagined in conflicting, but welcome colours, shapes and textures.

Letting formalwear and the undone coexist, emerald green lace was paired with brown leather and patent dusty pink kitten heels; while tangerine mesh and gold quilting emerged from beneath silken fur that shrouded the models; and sharp tailoring was given a sprinkling of sequins, in true Huishan spirit. As models walked the sprawling wooden hall, under the elaborate gilded frescos, it was clear Huishan was putting his expert haute couture training to good use this season.

Hot off the heels of her London Fashion Week debut last season, British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker returned to the London Fashion Week schedule to reaffirm her position as one of the city's most exciting new talents. Continuing her celebration of community, culture and craft, the designer drew inspiration from Accra’s roadside vendors, who navigate the busy streets with the produce they sell meticulously perched on their heads.

The outcome was a hoard of hats, including towering basket structures, oversized bowlers and baseball caps, made in collaboration with Virna Pasquinelli and reimagined UGG boots in kaleidoscopic colours. With tight looks that already felt more grown up and refined than those in her debut collection, Tolu's pristine feminine cuts and technical denim patchworks prove her notable prowess.

Fresh off of designing Beyoncé’s crystal earrings for the cover of her latest single, 'Texas Hold Em' David Koma’s Autumn/Winter 2024 centred around the glamorous kineticism of dance and performers. David credited the collection as an imagined dialogue between German dancer Pina Bausch and Spanish movement artist, Candela Capitán. But David’s impeccably sharp tailoring was not overshadowed by the theatrics of feather plumes, dazzling sequin embellishments and barely-there flippy miniskirt. Yet, movement was clearly the focus, as feather boa trims swept the floor and dresses followed every contour of the body.

In typical David Koma style, supple leather formed the basis of sexy thigh-high boots, co-ord sets and bustier dresses. The elegance of his muses, Bausch and Capitan was retained throughout the collection, and yet sky-high hemlines and slinky jersey ensures that the David Koma girl will always be ready for a 21st-century night out.

As far as fashion trajectories go, the past 12 months have been pretty momentous for Sierra-Leonean-born fashion designer Foday Dumbuya. In May, he was awarded the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design and this season he celebrates the 10th anniversary of LABRUM London. From Brixton Village to the Four Seasons Hotel and now the hallowed halls of the Tate Britain, Foday’s runway locations have mirrored the expanding reach of his success.

Unwavering in his commitment to championing “British tailoring and a touch of West Africa” this season Foday continued his tribute to the diverse cultures brought by immigrants when they traverse the continents. From suitcase headpieces – now a motif for the brand – and hats woven from raffia by British milliner Lucy Barlow to Adidas trainers worn with graphic-patterned tailoring that feel wearable for a generation that wants to get dressed up again without compromising on comfort, Foday continued to excite with his sartorial expression.