The Standouts, Part 2

Chopova Lowena
Eve Bailey

Two words: Hellman’s mayonnaise. Set in The Ditch in Shoreditch Town Hall, Chopova Lowena electrified us with her reimagined ode to fierce femininity. Merging Victorian costuming with athletic prowess, denim, studs, and frills collided in a whirlwind of textures and embellishments. Showgirls, rodeo stars, and Victorian fairies took centre stage, embodying the power of choosing your costume and, consequently, your identity. The models' hurried pace made it almost impossible to take in every detail but the joy was in whatever caught your eye first – mine being ASICS butterfly-studded trainers and Hellmann’s bag collaborations!

Karoline Vitto
Olivia Barrett

While other designers may relish the sun-soaked days of summers, Karoline Vitto prefers the dramatic stage of the storms: against the backdrop of lightning-spiky clouds and merciless waves crashing down on Copacabana, the women of Vitto’s highly anticipated SS25 collection, ‘Undertide’, stand as goddesses. Heralding from the impressive fleet of Fashion East graduates and having collaborated with Italian powerhouse Dolce & Gabbana, Vitto’s SS25 show was her first independent collection. Earthy tones and neutrals were this time accompanied by stormy blues, wonderfully capturing Vitto’s thundering return to the sartorial schedule. With sensual curves and her signature draping, Vitto centres the female form and all its nuances right at the heart of her practice. In our interview with Vitto, the Brazilian designer told us about how the lack of diversity within the fashion landscape served as motivation to carve out her own inclusive path. While ‘Undertide’ of course harks back to her stormy imagery, the show’s execution and motivation also served to exhibit Vitto’s strength as a designer who can indeed change the tides within fashion.

Jawara Alleyne
Caroline Issa 

Safety pins connecting delicate organza and chiffons or jersey strips all make up a whole that is as exciting to watch as it is to wear. A concise show, full of buzz within the room, this is the new celebrity go-to for one-off pieces in Jawara’s upcycling way. A joy.

Chet Lo
Eve Bailey 

Designers love a muse, and who better to look to than the very person who brought you into this earth (or runway in this case!) Chet Lo’s decision to dedicate his SS25 collection to his mother, Mai-Wah Cheung, resulted in a thoughtful and considered collection. Masterfully blending sharp, structured office silhouettes with soft, flowing Klein-blue elements,Chet Lo reflected his mother’s evolution from pioneering computer scientist to artist. If anyone was considering a career change, this collection may speed you along. 

Standing Ground
Olivia Barrett

It would be hard to summarise Michael Stewart’s Standing Ground in merely a few words. Of course, it oozes elegances and on a surface level if you were to steal a quick glance you’d agree that Stewart makes really beautiful garments. And yet, Standing Ground’s magic lies below its pristine epidermis. Two pieces of jersey are draped across the wearer and hundreds of beads are fed through the empty space between the fabric. The hidden beading tracing around the body gives an extraterrestrial edge to the glamour of Stewart’s silhouettes. Recently named the inaugural winner of LVMH’s Savoir Faire prize for craftsmanship, Stewart really flexed that muscle for his SS25 show. The monochromatic looks meant technique and shaping took centre stage, with flat taupes, juicy reds, and powder blues setting the perfect stage for the creative vision. Shifting from his signature jersey, Stewart added intrigue to leather accents with his beading technique. Standing Ground continues to add alluring layers to the sartorial landscape.

Roksanda
Caroline Issa

Should we call Roksanda a designer, or a sculptor? A sculptor of fabric, perhaps? When a Roksanda look comes onto a runway, it’s like watching a stroke of paint come to life. This was a breathtaking show, set in the construction site of the Space House, an iconic architectural gem in Soho whose outdoor balcony that overlooks all of London befitted the gowns that paraded down. The colours. The textures. Even the furry fitflops were a hit. This was a show of perfection and mastery. Can you tell we loved it?