MFW AW24 Highlights

Shift dresses adorned with satin and velvet bows, 1950s-style cocktail dresses, feathered army hats and heavy tweed – the debutantes of the 20th century were reimagined by Prada for Autumn/Winter 2024. Bags – leathered, feathered, beaded and appliqued – were slung in the crook of the model’s arms, suspended from mini-leather belts.

Pointed satin pumps in violet and chartreuse perfected this nostalgic silhouette with the 21st-century woman in mind. A master class from Mrs Prada and Raf Simons, who prove their ability to offer something new season after season. “This is a collection shaped by history. It’s not about nostalgia, it’s about understanding. Who we were, why we dressed like that. It’s about remembering our past, using this knowledge to move forward,” says Miuccia.

For Sabato De Sarno’s vision of Gucci, the legs are as integral to the outfit as the shoes. Sky-high hemlines on skirts, mini dresses and short suits are becoming a key code of Sabato’s creative direction, just two seasons into his takeover at the house, with trousers and jeans notably absent from his most recent collection too.

Short suits, nipped at the waist with slim leather belts, were paired with platform mules in aubergine, oxblood and bottle green. An Art Deco choker spelling out Gucci was worn by each model and leather half-moon bags with shining silver hardware hit the runway for the first time.

Marco De Vincenzo explored a darker side of the typically bohemian brand, Etro this season. Ornate gilded swirls and baroque-style florals were deployed across two-piece sets and delicately sheer blouses and dresses. Burgundy, charcoal and black formed the primary colour palette for the collection, providing a deeper intensity to Vincenzo’s romantic silhouettes. While the sombre palette may digress from Etro’s conventions, the brand's flirtatious spirit was invoked by the dramatic side slits on the dresses and skirts.

For his second collection as Bally’s creative director, Simone Bellotti presented masculine silhouettes, offset by softened tailoring. Rounded shoulders and a-line structures, crafted in supple brown knits and black leather, kept the collection cool, while silver studded pieces added a punky throughline and navy duffle coats paired with knitted beanies added a youthful touch to the bookish collection.

Recognised as a brand that will always take the road less travelled, Francesco Risso’s Marni refuses a succinct explanation. Abundant in shapes, with interminable fabrics and materials, oval silhouettes appeared in white shaggy fur and vibrant leopard print. Earth tones and neutrals were reserved for much of the collection while closing looks came to life with turquoise and vermillion pieces that had been layered with thickly applied paint strokes and paired with colour-coordinating fur.

b’s latest collection felt a little more grown-up than in recent collection, with an abundance of neatly tailored looks fit with mesh layers, Peter Pan collars, stirrup leggings and ballet flats, for both genders. In the sea of punkish black, brown and red, shimmering silver chainmail emerged – harking back to the brand’s 80s invention – this time draped to perfection around the hips. Against the heavy woven tweeds cut from Atelier Versace fabrics, the collection felt wearable and refined – with just the right amount of Medusa head glistening goodness.

An ode to literary legend Colette, Max Mara’s Autumn/Winter 2024 show was a myriad of expertly cut outerwear, easy woollen layers and technically tailored trousers. A welcome inclusion was a series of strappy square necklines, on flannel all-in-one rompers, tunic dresses and sweeping wide-leg jumpsuits. With a touch of midnight blue velvet, the looks move from day to night, with the glint of black and blue crystals.

Known for its fondness of the equestrian world, Durazzi Milano evolved its offering this season with oversized wool outerwear, quilted skirts and grey tartan separates. Tactile fur-trimmed gloves and tassel adornments complemented the steely horse-bit hardware that the brand has now become synonymous with. A collection that was enough to make the frosty weather feel welcome.

Celebrating 25 years of under-the-radar elegance, Dušan has been discreetly dressing the modern women in its take on “quiet luxury” way before anyone else was. Each season the brand makes slight adjustments to its staple offering, lengthening or shortening the hems of its luxurious camel hair coats, or shifting how a pair of trousers rests on the hips. Bright colours are banned and skirts and dresses have never appeared in its collections. To celebrate 25 years, however, the brand added a welcome peacock blue pigment and loose-fit double-breasted blazer to its staple collection.