Suit Yourself

Tuesday night in Paris, Anthony Vaccarello meant business. Showing his SS25 collection under the stars with models strutting a striking blue floor, reminiscent of Yves’s famous gardens in Marrakech, it was an atmosphere that oozed French elegance.

The show was a refreshing return to the real fashion characters we recognise from the Guy Bourdin era of sensual androgyny. It also brought to mind some of the legendary muses of Yves Saint Laurent, particularly Betty Catroux, who was frequently photographed alongside Yves, both donning matching pantsuits. The oversized ‘mensy’ silhouettes of the collection looked that much bolder on women, taking power dressing to a cool new height with an almost Clark Kent-esque preppy-ness added by the dark framed glasses. Another muse, Loulou de la Falaise, came to life later in the show through the bohemian Rive Gauche style, with eclectic maxi dresses layered with lace. But just know that the vintage warriors will jump to recreate both this men’s suiting and boho layering, trawling for that perfect blazer that you might have to fight for, but we’re ready. Just spend a few minutes on Vestiaire Collective or eBay and you’ll find alternatives that offer a much more affordable price tag with the looks cropping up from seasons long gone. Think second hand Yves, Totême, and Sandro below the £200 price point.

As highlighted in the show notes “No other House is as linked to a quintessential female archetype as Saint Laurent, whose ideal woman is more complex than the seductive perfection of classic muses.” Bella Hadid’s long-awaited runway return embodied this with a particular emphasis given to the selected models, chosen “for the way they symbolise a novel feminine ideal, integral to the Saint Laurent universe.” Vaccarello’s collection perfectly delivered this and we can’t wait to embody the Saint Laurent woman. But ask us where we got our suit and tie, we may just reply ‘Ebay!’.