Designers who went Digital 

Derrick - ‘Intermission’ 

For London-based menswear designer Derrick, the city is, of course, the crowded streets and the stifling buses, but it is also a stage. For his AW24 show, ‘Nightwalking,’ Derrick drew inspiration from his evening walk from his studio to Bethnal Green station; his sensory experiences and the hues that colour his strolls found their expression in this collection. Derrick’s stage takes many forms, and in its latest iteration, we see a video no longer than 100 seconds, titled ‘Intermission.’ The video is suave and architectural, particularly as it is singularly shot throughout a neatly curated London flat. 'Intermission' alone is suggestive, nodding to a precursory act, a temporary pause, and forthcoming action; ‘intermission’ is a complete sentence, and Derrick gives us just that. The clothes are unfussy, durable, and exhibit a simplistic intrigue conveyed through technical fabrics and a restrained yet intentional use of white, appearing as piping on trousers or manifesting as thick stripes. Despite being under two minutes long, the video, shot by filmmaker Dylan Hayes, articulates all of this. Direct, comprehensive, and genuinely very chic, Derrick’s digital turn works in his favour, and we look forward to the next act.

Masha Popova - 'Do Not Disturb' 

Despite her digital presentation’s title, a disruptive spirit emerged after watching Masha Popova’s hotel-based showing. Corridors, neatly made beds, and grand conference halls, which always feel coolly devoid, formed the centre of this London-based designer’s video format presentation. Affixed to the idea of movement, specifically wanting to detach from the lack of movement that grips much of editorial shoots, Masha imbued her presentation — and intrinsically her AW25 garments — with a sense of kineticism. Slouching boots, off-shoulder dresses, and languid blouses are clothes that engage with the natural movement of the wearer. Carrying a sense of surrealism, the video’s models took their positions and were quickly morphed into clay-like balls of goop, all while maintaining the colours of their AW25 looks. Masha’s signature reworked denim was contorted into new acid green and waxy burnt orange, while those of us who find ourselves “never fully unpacked” felt honoured here. 

Johanna Parv - Autumn/Winter 2025

Two words—Velodrome versatility. While Johanna Parv was deeply missed on the London schedule, her self-titled digital presentation was a masterclass in portraying not only an entirely new collection but a story, an ethos, and a motivation. At first glance, Johanna’s collections are city-girl chic at its best. Muted colour palettes, slender silhouettes, and flourishes of elegance abound; yet, Johanna’s craft shines even more with closer inspection. Skirts with armhole cut-outs are perfect when you’re biking through Brixton but need to keep your flowy hem out of the chain. Drawstring bodysuits shield all airwrapped hair from the London drizzle, and how could we forget all the thumb-holed garments to keep your nicely hand-creamed knuckles out of the biting chill? Johanna’s muse is hard to catch. She zooms past on her bike and swerves between traffic lanes, safety first always. Her new collection, shown through a series of cuts of models in sleek athletic couture, debuts a refined idea of her responsibility towards dressing the modern woman. The biking muse was always her niche, but this season’s silhouettes and genuinely fashion-forward shaping suggest the brand is maturing in its intentions. While you would never catch us on a bike (uber rating 5 stars), Parv’s congenial offerings might be the only thing inching us towards a bike lane.