MFW Standouts

Dsquared²

Olivia Barret

Riot trucks filled with models, leather cop daddies, and Cher references. No, it’s not a Village People tribute act; it was, of course, the 30th anniversary show of Dsquared2! Opened by none other than recent Grammy Award winner Miss Doechii herself, the show felt more like a party than a presentation. What better way to celebrate 30 years of the bold and beautiful brand? Various iconic Dsquared2-isms, including oversized trucker hats, sexy gowns, and cowboy accoutrements, made their way down the runway-cum-dancefloor. Models masqueraded as Grace Jones, Kiss, and Cher, while many of the brand’s fabulous eras were revisited in a collection that felt like a raucous journey through Dan and Dean’s world. A police car rolled onto the runway for the finale, as the Caten twins, suited and booted of course, were led away in bedazzled handcuffs, breaking free just before they captured the catwalk themselves. The show ended and seamlessly transitioned into the afterparty, with guests joining the throng of models and Doechii performing alongside City Girls, JT. If there was one show you wanted to experience this season, it was Dsquared2.

Gucci 

Eve Bailey

Providing a rather entertaining interval, Gucci’s AW25 collection unfolded amidst a pivotal period for the fashion house, following the sudden departure of Creative Director Sabato De Sarno in February 2025. The in-house design team stepped forward in unison, adorned in their Ancora Verde sweatshirts, presenting a collection that seamlessly wove elements from Gucci's stories past along the green carpeted runway, emblazoned with the interlocking G logo. Opulence was a clear theme with a playful mix of vibrant hues, think bright green paired with purple and pale pink against red, paired with oversized faux fur coats that put those quiet luxury devotees to bed. AW25 was a reminder that Gucci’s legacy is ever-evolving, not bound by the past but confidently stepping toward what's next.

Fendi

Eve Bailey

Who doesn't love an anniversary? Let alone a centennial, 100 whole years of Fendi! 100 years of baguettes, peekaboos and Sunshine Shoppers! This season artistic director Silvia Venturini Fendi drew inspiration from personal memories, commencing the show with a touching moment as Venturini Fendi's grandsons, dressed in miniature versions of a look Karl Lagerfeld had designed for her at age six, opened the show, encapsulating a century of family legacy and fashion excellence. The runway, designed to mirror the historic Via Borgognona boutique, featured models in opulent shearling coats, expertly mimicking the textures of mink and sable. The palette was a warm embrace of earthy tones, mocha browns and clay reds, complemented by Eighties-inspired pussy bows and 2010s peplums.

Prada

Olivia Barret

Breaking free from algorithmic expectations, Prada’s AW25 collection explored design beyond conventional boundaries, diverging from well-defined archetypes and allowing creativity to flourish in the grey area. Titled Raw Glamour, the show featured Raf and Mrs P grappling with the concept of femininity, contemplating how femininity exists today and how it manifests both physically and spiritually. Dresses served as the collection's protagonist garment. Despite embodying traditional femininity, raw hems, languid silhouettes, and irregular materials honoured a lack of refinement often excluded from conventional notions of womanhood. “Within feminine beauty, when thinking of its archetypes - numerous restrictions are placed on the body. Here, it is free,” Raf states in the show notes. Thus, while the heels, fur, and jewels suggested the show’s ‘glamour’, the fragments of rawness, taking shape as unfinished seams or backcombed hair, illustrated a nuanced understanding of the multiplicity of modern femininity—one that is inherently refined yet, perhaps more importantly, incredibly raw.

Ferragamo

Lachlan McGregor

Maximilian Davis, since his appointment as creative director at Ferragamo in 2022, has exercised an effortless understanding of heritage and archival narratives to form an ever-evolving body of work throughout his collections. Continuing on from his SS25 Collection the exploration of dance lives on, Davis in his most recent AW25 show was inspired by the legacy of the late choreographer Pina Bausch. The show featured a display of relaxed tailoring in the form of oversized outerwear reminiscent of the coats Bausch herself would often wear. In lieu of traditional fastenings, Davis re-imagined the house's classic ‘Hug Bag’ to be worn at the waist, whilst sheer T-shirt dresses flew down the runway constructed to allow for fluid movement evoking the imagery of Bausch’s work as a choreographer. A striking red feather dress, paired with a whimsical feather handbag, emerged as one of the most captivating moments in the collection. Davis continues to develop his point of view and plays perfectly between an appreciation of the house archives and his own vision for the brand’s creative future.