Scent with Sole

For Romanian-born designer Ancuta Sarca, hybridity serves as both an aesthetic and sustainable choice. After launching her eponymous label in 2019, the London-based designer joined the impressive ranks of Fashion East alumni and has since innovated footwear and its production. Utilising a circular design process, Ancuta repurposes and revitalises waste fabrics and materials to create her supercharged shoes. Knife-sharp heels are transformed into scuba-stilettos, and pointed slingbacks receive an athletic makeover with sneaker tongue detailing and rubberised soles, crafting the perfectly smushed silhouette of both trainers and high heels. Ancuta certainly does not design within the lines, and her recent collaboration with perfumer Molton Brown involved crafting a pair of shoes inspired by the fragrance notes of their new Bluebell and Wild Strawberry scent. Whether it's a spritz of perfume or a sports car zooming past, she translates these invigorating yet intangible moments into designs that have established her as a significant name in the footwear industry. We caught up with Ancuta to discuss her creative processes and her new collaboration, which naturally raises the question: if this perfume were a shoe, what would it look like? 

As a designer who prioritises a circular production method, does your creative process begin with the sustainable or aesthetic elements first?

My design process usually starts with sourcing materials, particularly from deadstock or surplus resources. Once I have the materials, I begin to shape my designs around them, finding creative ways to bring my vision to life while respecting the materials' inherent characteristics.

What’s the most unconventional source of inspiration you’ve drawn from?

An unconventional source of inspiration for me is definitely my own wardrobe, as well as unwanted clothes and shoes that were destined for donation or disposal. It’s fascinating to reimagine these items, giving them new life in the form of a fresh design.

Congratulations on your new Molton Brown collaboration! What was the creative process like after you were asked to design a shoe to accompany the new Bluebell & Wild Strawberry scent?

The creative process started with finding materials and colours evoking the same energy that the perfume does, bold, natural, flowery, and positive. I worked with cut-outs from trainers and leathers and remade them into a flower details with a violet belter upper. 

As a designer who has created a truly unique aesthetic, what keeps you motivated to continue creating? 

Being a small brand with a close-knit team, and with myself managing both the creative and business sides, the journey can feel overwhelming at times. However, what truly drives me is seeing my customers wear my designs and getting the opportunity to collaborate with incredible brands, like this Molton Brown partnership.

Your designs draw a lot from sporting style and athletic silhouettes, can you give us one sporting figure whose style has inspired you?

Nadia Comaneci!

Can the feelings and memories that scent evoke be replicated through something that you wear?

While I don’t think scent can be directly replicated in a literal sense, I do believe it can inspire the overall mood of a collection. Both scent and fashion are powerful ways to evoke emotions and memories, and I try to channel that energy into my designs.

We are in a hyper-consumptive culture - how do you respond to this through your brand?

My brand aims to challenge the fast fashion mindset by embracing sustainability and circular production. By reusing and upcycling materials, and focusing on quality over quantity, I strive to create pieces that have longevity, both in terms of durability and their relevance to the wearer."

What do you hope to achieve in the next 5 years?

In the next five years, I hope to continue growing my brand while staying true to its values of sustainability and creativity. I envision expanding our collaborations, further developing our circular production methods, and reaching more customers who are as passionate about conscious design as we are.