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The Nordic New Wave

Inside Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NEWTALENT initiative and the designers shaping the future of Nordic fashion.

Because We're Obsessed | May 11, 2026

The Danish capital’s NEWTALENT scheme is quietly becoming one of fashion’s most effective incubators

By Abi Turner All images by Lana Ohrimenko

Renowned globally for its progressive outlook, the Nordic fashion scene continues to set an impressive pace for the industry. Alongside a deep commitment to sustainability and gender equality, the region has become a powerful incubator for emerging talent.  But while the rest of fashion continues to debate sustainability in panel talks and branded tote bags, Copenhagen has quietly built an ecosystem where emerging designers are given the infrastructure to actually survive.

Copenhagen Fashion Week’s NEWTALENT initiative sits at the centre of that effort. Presented by Pandora, the initiative supports three to five emerging Nordic brands per season that have been in business for fewer than five years, offering financial backing, mentorship, strategic partnerships, and access to advisors, alongside onboarding to the official Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule. In practical terms: the sort of support that can mean the difference between becoming “one to watch” and becoming another beautifully art-directed casualty of independent fashion.  Now in its fourth year, the programme guides selected brands through three consecutive seasons before graduating them into an alumni network, providing a crucial bridge into an otherwise opaque industry. At a time when independent fashion is becoming increasingly difficult to sustain, initiatives like NEWTALENT feel more necessary than ever.

For the upcoming SS27 season, CPHFW NEWTALENT welcomes Stem, Anne Sofie Madsen, Studio Constance. Together, they promise what Copenhagen Fashion Week CEO Cecilie Thorsmark describes as “a breadth of talent and innovative expression” - setting the tone for the season ahead. As Copenhagen continues to cultivate a new generation of designers, the industry’s established fashion capitals would be wise to take note.

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Studio Constance

Studio Constance is an emerging Scandinavian luxury brand with sustainability at its core. Committed to resisting the onslaught of irresponsible consumerism, the label embraces “slow fashion as the new modus operandi”, creating timeless garments designed to be reused, recycled, and resold. These are pieces intended to move through the changes in your life without losing their relevance. The brand champions a concept of feral luxury — a redefined femininity for the modern woman that is free from constraints, full of contradictions, and unapologetically herself. Studio Constance was enrolled in CPHFW NEWTALENT in May 2026 and will showcase on the official schedule for SS27, AW27, and SS28.

Stem

At the forefront of the sustainability movement, Stem is committed to zero-waste production. Founded in Copenhagen in 2021 by textile designer and weaver Sarah Brunnhuber, the brand approaches fashion production through a zero-waste lens. Stem has developed a woven garment system that minimises production waste while highlighting the craftsmanship and process behind each piece. Working exclusively with recycled natural fibres, the label challenges conventional models of mass production and consumption through a more considered approach to making clothes. In November 2025, Stem joined CPHFW NEWTALENT and will present on the official schedule for SS27, and AW27.

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Anne Sofie Madsen

Anne Sofie Madsen approaches fashion through contrast, embracing contradiction and cross-disciplinary exploration. The brand redefines clothing through transformation while balancing elegance with utility. Danish designer Anne Sofie Madsen originally ran the label from 2011 to 2017 before reintroducing it - on her own terms - at last year’s Copenhagen Fashion Week. The return proved a success, garnering attention from Vogue and audiences fortunate enough to witness it firsthand. Caroline Clante joined as co-creative director last year, and together the duo emphasises sustainable practice aimed at women who dress not to seduce others, but to empower themselves. Anne Sofie Madsen was enrolled in CPHFW NEWTALENT in May 2025 and will showcase on the official schedule for SS27.