The London Fashion Week Men’s circus is (almost) back in town. Taking over East London’s Truman Brewery, the British Fashion Council's showspace and popping up across ad hoc locations across London, we’re ready to soak up three days of Spring/Summer 2020 collections.
Boasting a roster of the most exciting London talent, the schedule features current 2019 LVMH finalists, sustainable stalwarts, designers blurring the lines between men’s and womenswear, and those challenging socio-political issues. Before watching the shows in real-time via our Instagram and heading backstage with us, get acquainted with the heroes of the line-up we're most looking forward to.
Saturday
Kicking off the Saturday schedule is Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt’s Art School. Since debuting under the Fashion East umbrella in 2017, we’ve seen the brand pick up a nomination for Emerging Talent Menswear at the 2018 British Fashion Awards, while continuously push the boundaries of genderless fashion. Paving the way for a more diverse and inclusive industry, past collections have seen their deconstructed minimalist aesthetic come to life on non-binary queer icons (often friends of the design duo) – and we’ve got high hopes that Spring/Summer 2020 will deliver more fashion-forward and progressive thinking.
Following suit is Woolmark Prize winner and British Fashion Fund Finalist of 2019, Edward Crutchely, who’s been a favourite on the scene since he debuted under Fashion East in 2015. Imbuing artisanal textiles with cultural references, his genderless garments are a product of his industry experience – having consulted Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton as a leading expert in fabric and textile development. Speaking to the designer about his fluid approach ahead of Spring/Summer 2019, he explained: “Releasing myself from thinking in a purely ‘menswear’ way has allowed me the creative freedom to explore more volumes and new approaches to shape and silhouette.” And with this in mind, we look forward to what SS20 will bring. Meanwhile, 2017’s British Emerging Talent Prize winner and Club Kid, Charles Jeffrey, will be setting the tone for a wild Saturday night with his Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY catwalk. If last season’s Peter Pan-inspired dystopian utopia is anything to go off, we’re getting geared up for another escapist and fantastical display.
Sunday
Speaking to one half of Stefan Cooke earlier in the week, we learned that Spring/Summer 2020 arrives as a further exploration of what they're known best for: craftsmanship. This season, however, we’re set to expect a departure from the tight silhouettes of past seasons, with the collection designed first and foremost from a place of rigorously asking themselves whether they would actually wear the pieces. Meanwhile, Sunday also sees Martine Rose return to the on-schedule line-up after having opted out for Autumn/Winter 2019. Renowned for her off-kilter presentation and runways (a North London cul-de-sac, a rock climbing centre and an indoor Tottenham food market have all served as backdrops to her catwalks), what we can expect this season is all part of the fun. Going off past seasons, we’re hoping to see the Balenciaga menswear consult bring a fusion of culture, music, fashion to the table.
Monday
Since breaking out on the scene in 2015, Samuel Ross – protégé to Louis Vuitton’s Virgil Abloh – has been one of the most thrilling talents to watch for his streetwear brand, A-COLD-WALL*. A previous NEWGEN recipient and winner of British Emerging Talent Menswear at the Fashion Awards 2018, we’ve seen the brand ascend to cult status in record time. With Autumn/Winter 2019 a political statement about freedom of movement – shown through his familiar language of utility – we’re waiting with bated breath for where his conceptual creativity will take us next. Meanwhile, ACW* will also be hosting a pop-up at The Truman Brewery throughout the weekend, with pieces from his ‘GLARE’ and ‘CHROMA’ capsule collections on sale.
Elsewhere, wrapping up monday is paria/FARZANEH and Bethany Williams. Both LVMH Prize 2019 finalists, the designers are respectively making waves on the London circuit. While Yorkshire-born Iranian designer, Paria – who’s lauded for marrying Iranian workwear and fabrics with Western silhouettes – was selected as the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN ‘One To Watch’ in 2018, Autumn/Winter 2019 saw Bethany Williams’ ethically-focused and philanthropic fashion win Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design. Natch, we can't wait to see what SS20 has in store!
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