After a long and dreary January, the fashion filled month of Feb couldn’t come soon enough. Last weekend, the best in the industry, came to London to see what our designer’s had to offer for the Autumn/Winter season ahead. As per, we saw another mix of up-and-coming talent on display, as well as the long standing fashion houses, and both continued to blow us away (if Storm Dennis hadn’t already) with their delectable design contributions. 

Playing Up to the Part 
Fashion has always been a playground for designer’s creativity, and this season, the traditional format of a runway show had a big ol’ facelift. MM6 Maison Margiela, who were a new fixture on the schedule, opted for a circular runway (in form rather than in a literal sense) where guests were invited to follow the models through the production process. Starting in a polka-dot filled room, models stood on display, until they eventually walked out, and started their catwalk through several dark underground rooms, before finishing in the backstage area, where they were prepped by hair and make-up, to go back to where they began, and start the whole process again.

MM6 Maison Margiela AW20

Dilara Findikoglu was also an immersive catwalk experience, as the designer hosted a dinner party, where models traversed around each table, drinking the guest’s wine and eating their food. Edeline Lee took the idea of fashion as theatre literally, collaborating with Mary Queen of Scots director, Josie Rouke on several ten minute theatre performances, inspired by Film Noir. But, the winner of the most abstract fashion production, goes to OSMAN, who decided not to show any of his new AW20 collection! Conducted in the Whitechapel Gallery, OSMAN decided to use his platform as a way of showcasing his new short film
Her Dreams Are Bigger, which shined a thought-provoking light on the realities of fast fashion and global concepts of beauty.

Edeline Lee AW20

We’re in the Mood For Dancing!
There was definitely a positive energy surrounding this fashion week - even seeing models, during the Richard Quinn show bare a smile! - and this definitely reflected in the shades and shapes that were presented on the catwalk. Petar Petrov, who debuted his first catwalk show at LFW, presented elongated shirt sleeves, pussybow collars left untied and suiting with draped lapels, which elegantly bounced as models walked.

Roland Mouret AW20 

Roland Mouret ignited a strong sense of 80s nostalgia for his AW20 show, opting for a David Bowie soundtrack to play, as chiffon pussybow dresses (including a silver number Ziggy Stardust would be proud to adorn) moved to the beat.
The devil was in the detail at Huishan Zhang; his feather trim on a belted poncho two-piece (which glided like a superheroes cape), fluttered as the model elegantly strode, hands in pockets down the runway. The message is clear; these clothes are made to be danced in!

Huishan Zhang AW20

Knitwear, But Make it Glam
Maybe it's in aid of trying to get people to go out more - with millennials now favouring to go out less and stay in more - but designer’s this season where really embracing all things evening-wear. Those who ultimately understand the struggle of wanting to go out, but it being -5° outside, opted for going-out-garms that catered for cosiness. Preen by Thornton Bregazzi produced the three-piece dress; gold sequin turtleneck, layered underneath an off-the-shoulder sweetheart neckline top, with Argyle print knit skirt, showing that glam on the top, but comfy on the bottom is a look.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi AW20

Molly Goddard was the purveyor of this trend, as she combined nearly every dress with a snug underlayer. The
pièce de résistance; a forest-green Fair Isle cardigan, underneath a bull-fighter scarlet tulle dress, accessorised with a Scene kid’s staple, Creepers. Unsure of how to style two contradictory clothing pieces? Take a leaf out of Roksanda’s book, and opt for one block colour, like her pairing of indigo roll-neck jumper and ruffle ball gown.

Molly Goddard AW20   

Collar-ful Collections
Well, the title says it all. This season bore an array of different tailoring techniques, with collars being the designer's focus, often looking to old religious tropes to be inspired by. Simone Rocha’s first eight looks played on the concept of baptism smocks, as women in layered dresses that spouted traditional shirt collars along with more youthful, Peter Pan ones walked the runway.

Christopher Kane AW20

Sex, and the sin surrounded by it, was what inspired Christopher Kane. Amid lace cutouts in slip dresses and triangle domination, an oversized band-collared coat with a jewelled gel harness strode confidently down the runway, showing that seduction doesn’t derive from nudity. Bringing some appreciated fun into LFW was JW Anderson, whose selection of tinsel-tastic dresses with matching pilgrim collars, couldn’t help but light up the faces sitting front row. We’ll be waiting in anticipation to be sporting said outfit for the whole of December. 

JW Anderson AW20

More More More!

+ Look to our LFW recaps to see what happened on Day One...

+ This is why Anya Hindmarch didn't show her collection at LFW...

+ Surprise Me!

Tags: LFW , AW20 , trend , Carmen Bellot